New England Herpetological Society

Hyla veriscolor

Description:

Light green to gray colored frogs which change colors to match the background. Medium sized frogs, these frogs have a polkadot under each eye and have big toepads that help them climb.

Habitat:

These frogs are fairly common throughout parts of the US. They often hang out in brushy, overgrown areas, so probably a half and half or terrarium tank would be best for pet care.

Diet:

These guys eat the usual insect diet. Crickets, moths, flies, etc. A vitamin supplement powder should be used at least once a week.

Habits:

You can usually tell the males from the females since they are the ones who sing "love songs" to attract females to their "pad". Males start singing, usually at night when air temperatures reach around 60 degrees. (April through July is breeding season) Their songs are like birds or buzzing trills.

Agalychnis callidryas

Description:

Red Eyed Treefrogs have bright red eyes and are a really bright color of green with blue and yellow stripped sides. They also have funny looking orange toes. These are definitely one of the more beautiful species of frogs! (Very photogenic too!)

Habitat:

This species tends to do better in a community. Tall The Arboreal Tanks are the best bet for these guys. Oh, and also be sure to provide a means for them to get out of the water pond if they fall in. While they can swim, providing a branch or something is generally a good idea. Read more information on this subject in the Housing Your Pet Frog section. The temperature should be about 78-85° during the day and about any where from 66 to 77° at night. The humidity should be kept around 80-100%.

Diet:

Like most frogs...they will eat fly's, moths grasshoppers, and possibly other small frogs. Crickets too!

Habits:

These guys are ultra mellow! One time I went to a pet store and there was one sitting on the cash register!! I thought it was a toy, but then he BLINKED! As it turns out, they are nocturnal. (That's why their eyes are red! The color helps them see!) At night they come out and climb around searching for bugs to eat for dinner.

Miscellaneous Facts:

Red-eyed tree frogs come from rain forests of Costa Rica in Central America. While lovely creatures and good breeding pets, I really, really recommend that this not be a good pet for beginners! They are pretty expensive and fairly delicate. Why do they have such bright red eyes? Some believe that it is also a form of protection called "startle coloration". These frogs tend to be active at night, so if the frog is awakened in the daytime, as might happen if a predator chanced upon it despite its excellent day time camouflage, the eyes pop abruptly open. Since they are suddenly so bright, they startle the predator, who is likely to pause, if only for a moment. Big eyes staring at you could be those of an enemy, poised to attack. A moment's hesitation would be all the agile tree frog would need to make a leap to safety.

Similar ruses are known in other animals. For example, some large moths have equally dramatic eye-like spots of color on their hind wings. Like the frog, they sleep in the day, and the camouflage-colored forewings cover the eyespots of the hind wings. But if such a moth is disturbed, it slides the front wings forward, suddenly revealing the dramatic eyespots on the hind wings.

Ceratophrys ornata and related species

CAGING: An adult horned frog (4-6 inches snout to vent) may be comfortably kept in a plastic sweater box or ten gallon aquarium. No substrate is necessary if you are interested solely in maintenance. If a display is desired, large bark nuggets to a depth of several inches (depending on how much you want your frog to bury itself) work well; likewise large smooth stones are too large to be ingested with a prey item.

WATER: De-chlorinated, filtered, or spring water should be used. Tap water can be de-chlorinated either chemically or by boiling or letting it stand overnight in an open container. Amphibians do not drink water, they absorb it through their skin, therefore a water dish should be provided that is large enough for the animal to easily get in and out of. The simplest caging/water arrangement is to tilt a bare cage such that an inch of water

pools at the lower end. Water should be changed every other day, or as soon as it is soiled.

TEMPERATURE: Horned frogs tolerate a temperature range from 70 to 90 degrees F. At the lower end, feed less frequently and offer smaller amounts. The preferred range is 75 to 80 degrees F.

FOOD: Horned frogs will eat mice, goldfish, earthworms - just about anything that moves in their presence. An adult frog should be fed no more than a medium-sized mouse or two large feeder goldfish per week. They are always hungry, however feeding ad libitum will result in an extremely overweight animal that will probably not remain healthy long. Food may be offered live or, if dead, dangled with forceps. When feeding mice, freshly killed or thawed is recommended as it is safer for the frog and more humane for the mouse.

HEALTH: Frogs will occasionally appear puffed up for a short period and undergo spastic movements with their hind legs, scraping them over their body - this is normal shedding behavior. The animal will soon remove its outer skin in this fashion and briefly be covered with a clear slime which soon disappears. A horned frog that is listless and lacks appetite (and is not in a cold environment) should be cause for concern. Always examine water quality first, then air quality (airborne contaminants can settle in the water or directly on the animal), then food quality. A bacterial infection known as "red-leg" will sometimes affect frogs. It is characterized by a reddening of the underside of the frog's belly and/or hind legs, and if not treated is usually fatal. Consult a veterinarian for antibiotics and dosages. Don't use disinfectants; traces of them remaining in the cage could harm or kill your frog. Wash the cage with warm water and a small amount of mild dish soap. Rinse thoroughly and dry completely to remove any traces of chlorine from the tap water.

HANDLING: These animals should not be handled except for physical examinations and moving the animal. All amphibians have a permeable skin that is sensitive to toxins. Quite often, in the course of a day, one's hands can become covered with numerous substances that are poisonous to a frog (hair spray, insecticides, chalk, ink, disinfectants, soaps, etc.) - be certain to thoroughly wash your hands before handling the animal. Grasp the frog firmly by both thighs in one hand and support the body with the other hand underneath the belly. Avoid holding the frog by the legs alone (could break bones) or by the body (squeezing too hard could result in internal damage). Always approach from the rear!

Ambystoma species

CAGING: Terrestrial salamanders may be kept in plastic shoeboxes, sweater boxes or in fish tanks. Rubbermaid sweater and shoe boxes work well because they let light in, but are opaque enough to make the salamander feel secure. Holes should be drilled along the sides and on the lid. Salamanders are secretive, and if you use a transparent container such as a fish tank, you will need to provide places for your salamander to hide. You may use clumps of moss or pieces of bark (bake them in the oven first to kill any insects living in them). Ceramic or plastic would be even better, because they do not get moldy. See what you can find in the fish department of your pet store. For a substrate, use damp potting soil. You may mix it with sphagnum moss so it will retain moisture longer. Salamanders must be kept moist, but not wet! Check the soil frequently, and mist or add water as necessary. If the salamander looks shriveled, the substrate is too dry.

WATER: Chlorine is toxic to salamanders, so use only distilled water, spring water, or tap water that has been allowed to sit for 24 hours in an open container. A shallow dish of water should be set into the substrate. Many salamanders enjoy soaking in a dish of water, and will defecate there (which makes cleaning easier.)

TEMPERATURE: Salamanders are comfortable in a temperature range of 55-65 degrees F. They can tolerate temperatures up to 80 degrees F. In the summer, move them to a cool spot.

FOOD: Salamanders are carnivores. They should be offered as many of the following as possible; earthworms trout worms for spotted salamanders and night crawlers for tiger salamanders), waxworms, occasionally dusted with reptile vitamins or calcium powder, and live newborn mice. Waxworms and earthworms are available at bait shops and through the mail from bait companies. You can buy a large supply of earthworms at the end of the fishing season and keep them in your refrigerator. Make sure they stay moist and they will stay alive for a long time. Offer your salamander food every 2-3 days.

HEALTH: Scoop visible waste deposits of the surface as soon as possible. Every two or three months, redo your salamander cage with fresh soil. Don't use disinfectants; traces of them remaining in the cage could harm our salamander. Wash the cage with warm water and a small amount of mild dish soap. Rinse thoroughly and dry completely to remove any traces of chlorine from the tap water. Then add new soil.

HANDLING: Handle your salamanders as little as possible. The salt on human skin is harmful to them. Always wet your hand in non-chlorinated water before picking up the salamander. This will prevent injury to the salamander and reduce the amount of salt on your hand. If your salamander should ever appear extremely puffy, it is probably reacting to contact with a toxic substance. Place it in a shallow bowl of chlorine free water for a few hours to allow it to purify its system.